Progress

Looking pretty good. Was even wearing it inside out at the first image. I'd cut down the next by the time I took the front shot.

This project has required an inordinate amount of skirt and train futzing. The many, narrow pattern pieces are challenging get to drape right. I cut my gores far wider than needed, hence giant seam allowances.Too much fullness and the slim lines are ruined, not enough and the train gets wonky. You can see where some extra fabric is needed to lay out neatly.The little bit to the side is what was most concerning, 

After doing a bit of research and doing some Facebook group inquires I realized I needed to added a gore. 

I needed to add the little triangle above (which you can see in the pins) to get the trail to work. This is not needed for a trainless skirt. Ended up having to cut twice, as I needed more length than I anticipated. For effect, I added more gores (fairly skinny ones) to the gaps I have in the train above.

All this futzing and ... the train gores weren't needed. While it is needed laying out so pretty in the above picture, on a dynamic moving skirt it is just too wide. It fans out perfectly on its own with slightly less fabric.

What I am loving so far about this gown is that it is front closing, and much simpler on seam finishes. No bottom edge of a bodice to clean up, no skirt clips.

I've started cutting the gown (4 fabrics! Lining, organza interling, satin, silk gauze) which is taking forever. I've started pleating the gauze for the little train hem ruffle. Need 180 inches for the hem, which comes out to 20 yards of gauze. Am 30 inches in so far.