Evening Cape, Circa 1880-1900

I know, I've basically abandoned this blog. Not that I had much of a following anyway.

Realized that my new cell phone take great low light photos, so I can share a few extant pieces with you. Black is super hard to photograph well, so I hadn't bothered.

I think this evening cape dates from around 1900. A more subdued version of the crazy ones you see during the 1890's. Perhaps re-cut to take in the sleeves? Will never know...

Bodice is silk, with a cotton lining. Machine made lace sleeve caps, and a matching lace fall down the center front. Bead work is an applied trim, make of a type of soutash and beads. All of the beadwork is applied trim, so this would have been fast to make up.

Trim hides the shoulder seam (not an armscye, so not sure what to call it) and a dart along the front flappy bits. Front flappy bits hit hip level.

Cape open, showing the waist stay tape (not shown in the first photo, but would have been visible when worn). Has since been detached from the front flappy bits, but evidence of stitch lines show it attached. 

Showing the mounting for the fall and the amount of overlap. The hooks are not a hook an eye tape, but a quick finishing method to hide the underside of the hooks and eyes. The quality of the silk was poor, and it is now shattering.  The main body of the cape is in great condition.

Yes, a hanging strap. Evidence of a prior stitch line on the lining.

How the rufflely bits on the shoulder where attached is interesting. The rufflely shoulders are not cut like armscyes (mirroring the curve of a side back seam in the back) but it is finished like one. I think 1 of 2 things is going on here - it's finished with a binding because the dress maker though of it like an armscye, or it was cut down from a crazier 1890's version and finished in the easiest way possible. 

Actually, doing a bit more research makes me think 1880's.  The flappity bits seem to have gone out in the 1890's. But now I'm finding 1890's examples. 

Bah.

This is how I feel about researching it this evening. 

Back to pictures. 

The back view. The sparkles end in a water silk ribbon bow at the small of the back (why I'm leaning 1880's)  The sparkles at the center are 2 different styles of appliques, with dangly bits.

Flappity bits and dangly bits. Different doodahs.

Am really feeling my terminology tonight.

See? Dangly bits off the appliques. Think all the appliques had little dangly bits or what ever, which time has torn assunder. Again, purchased trim and applied. 2 big ones under the neck (with 3 larger dangly bits) and 3 small ones (each with at least 2 small dangly bits, maybe more?). I don't get the impression that the dress maker spent lots of time arranging these or placing them artistically. At least I'd not have done it that way. 

While well made and using quality base materials, not a lot of time was spent embroidering or beading. None really, just enough stitching to keep purchased trim on. Not everyone wore Worth.