Oldie but Goodie, Part 1 (bodice)

Rather than let my pictures molder in my Flickr account I thought I'd share. I bought this gown 4 years ago as a birthday present to myself, in a couldn't pass up opportunity. This is the post that focuses on the bodice.

Lots and lots of construction info in these pictures. Makes you realize the difference between a costume and clothing. One of these days am going to make this dress. To this level.

As best I can tell this gown dates from the Natural Form era, 1877-1883. You see caped walking or traveling gowns from time to time in fashion prints throughout the era, so am basing the period of the lack of cut for a bustle. The gown is trimmed in silk satin, and is some sort of silk blend, wool most likely. A slight sheen with a slight verigation, impossible to match so I am finding.

 

 All the buttons have been removed, and new ones reapplied off center.

 Back view. Faux hoodie!

 

 Bodice inside. Cotton sateen lining, fully finished by hand. The fashion fabric was turned under, around the lining and straight stitched down. Much quicker than whipping a seam finish. Some of the boning remains, which I suspect is whale bone.

 

A closer shot of the front. The dress was meant to be worn with the cape, and is double breasted only  from the bustline down. The modern buttons go widely off center to accommodate a thicker modern waist. Never seen a transition from double to single breasted, so I wonder if a bit of lace At the throat was meant to hide it.

 

 Close up of the tails. Buttons gone, sigh. The bodice was not visible above the waist due to the cape. Let me know if you're dying for a picture.

 

And the sleeve cuff. You can make out the verigation in the fabric. And hand stitching from inside the sleeve above the cuff. Not sure about the lace, as it feels newer to me. Anyone have better eyes for lace?



Here is the cape. It was tacked down at the shoulders at one point. The fabric is pulling out at back of the collar. Underside of the collar is cotton sateen. There is a single line of piping that breaks at the shoulder. It is the only single piping on the outfit.



Who says sloppy hand sewing isn't period? The center of the hood is faked. Love the screw up on the center back seam. Have definately done that and ripped it out, but they left it in knowing it would be hidden.

Under the cape collar. Pin marks. Must of used a broach as a clasp.



Inside. Check out the weirdness of the shoulder seam! There is piping in that odd, deep seam allowance. Again with the turn back finishing.



Please let me know if you'd like certain detail shots. I like to pull this out of its box occasionally to prevent it from creasing and I'd have a good excuse.

Next up, the skirt in Part 2!